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Bespoke or Made-to-Measure

For the optimum fit and comfort, undoubtedly a custom-made suit is the first choice. But, if you’re short on time or simply have a body type that doesn’t require special-fit needs, a made-to-measure suit is another option. For even some well-heeled gentlemen, the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure can be confusing. Here are details to help you make the best wardrobe decision.

Made-to-measure clothing was first created three decades ago as a hybrid style of suit making that is a notch above ready-to-wear, but not as pricey and time consuming as a bespoke suit. Rather than creating a suit from scratch, clients are fitted from a selection of sample suit jackets and slacks that are tailored for their body type and then are given fabric and detail options. In contrast, a custom-made suit is measured and made for a client’s specific body type, taking many nuances into consideration as well as personalizing the fabrics and all the details.

A true bespoke suit is constructed by hand by one tailor using measurements and patterns taken from a client’s physical form. Oftentimes, the tailor will visit a client’s home or office if an in-store visit isn’t convenient. Since the tailor taking the measurements is the same person making the suit, every idiosyncratic nuance of a person’s body is considered in the construction of the garment. After the initial measurements, it will take six to eight weeks for a prototype and the first fitting, and as long as six months to receive the final suit.

For made-to-measure suits, a client typically visits the store and selects a suit that is then tailored to suit his body type. The suit is produced in a factory and then customized by a team of tailors specializing in one component: the sleeve, the buttonholes, the pockets. The final suit is delivered, usually within six to eight weeks, and any adjustments are made by the in-store tailor.

With factory-made clothing, machines are computerized to sew the same stitch with the same tension throughout the garment. “With a custom suit, the tailor is able to adjust the tension in the seams where the body moves the most.”

Price shouldn’t be a determining factor when choosing between custom and made-to-measure clothing because the costs are often comparable, depending upon the manufacturer. For example, a typical Kiton made-to-measure suit is a 50-hour labor of love and starts at about $5,000, whereas a bespoke suit from New York tailor Leonard Logsdail requires about 48 hours of work with a price of about $5,500. However, it’s possible to get a well-constructed made-to-measure garment from Ravazzolo for as little as $2,000.

Not all custom tailors are created equal. A private tailor in your hometown may offer the same services of a Savile Row suit maker, from taking measurements and cutting the cloth to fitting the final garment. But technically capable doesn’t mean he’s trend savvy. Some tailors never leave their workshops to see how men’s clothing has changed over the years. As Italian clothing maker Luciano Barbera points out, “It is possible to get a fantastically made suit that is ugly because the person who made it has no style or sense of proportion.”

With a customized suit, the fabric and style options are limitless. With made-to-measure suits, clients are provided with a selection of fabrics to choose from. With bespoke clothing you can request any extravagant detail you desire, from cashmere under the collar and personalized linings to mother-of-pearl buttons and unlimited pockets inside and outside of the garment. You can even alter the shape of the shoulder and the cut of the armhole to your liking.

Made-to-measure suits typically come with a preset list of options: working or nonworking buttonholes; flap, patch, or besom pockets; pleated or non-pleated trousers. However, there are different levels of made-to-measure clothing. Some suit makers will lengthen the jacket, shorten the sleeve, and narrow the waist and call it made-to-measure. Others go much further, taking extra measurements to create clothing that disguises physical shortcomings such as lowered shoulders, high waists, and extended bellies. Some made-to-measure is only 5 percent handmade; others can be as much as 60 percent. Always ask how each maker defines made-to-measure.

Both custom and made-to-measure are obviously more expensive compared with the standard off-the-rack suit, as it’s a time-consuming proposition requiring the service of seasoned tailors. Aside from labor, the cost is based on the fabric selection and the number of special-request details. With so many options, it’s important to determine your wardrobe needs before engaging a tailor in the process, be it bespoke or made-to-measure.

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CB2 has some great modern pieces with clean lines and man friendly colors- lots of grey and brown, so this could be one stop shopping for any guy. This sectional is less offensive than one you’ll find at a discount retailer- and paired with some sleek leather club chairs there’s plenty of room for seating.

A modern arch lamp will impress any gal, and this cement coffee table will thrill other guys (“Dude, is that cement? Sweeeeeeet“)

IKEA is genius for bachelor pad decor, of course. This black dresser with Asian inspired details is amazing (look a those drop pulls, ladies!) and this rug is an instant classic.

 

A mattress on the floor does NOT count as a bed fellas- so pick up a bed frame for goodness sakes! These are less than $350!

For dining try one of these pairings-
For a small space try the Docksta Table from IKEA and scoop back chairs from Room & Board.

A simple wood table by Ikea paired with slightly more pricey sleek cantilever chairs by Room & Board. A great take on the high/low mix.

Of course we can’t for get the all important entertainment unit- be it modern with storage, more Ralph Lauren-y with doors and a beat up finish or simple and clean….they can all be found at IKEA!

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Rekindle the romance despite the economy

Low on cash because of the economy? Don’t let your skinny wallet put a damper on your romance.

You may not have it like Obama– to take your significant other (SO) on a helicopter ride to the theatre in NYC.  However, you still have some low cost and stress-free options.

10 Tips to rekindle the romance during the current economy:

1-      Cook a special date night dinner at home

This doesn’t have to be a crazy production if you don’t know how to cook. Go online find a quick and easy recipe. Put your heart and soul into it. Your SO will appreciate the effort. If you were smarter than the rest of us and learned how to cook, this is the time to make your partner’s favorite meal.

2-      Make it a movie night at home

Go to your local public library and rent your partner’s favorite movie for FREE. Stay away from the films that make them angry or sad. We want them to remain positive and think happy thoughts.

3-      Take a bike ride or a long walk

Spend time each other outside of the house and far away from the stack of overdue bills on the kitchen table. Spend some time enjoying each other’s company.

4-      Surprise your SO with a card just because

Your partner will appreciate the gesture even if you purchased the card from the dollar store. Don’t simply rely on the author of the card to express how you feel. Add your own special note. Be confident that your partner loves your chicken scratch–and will be able to read it!

5-      Take a stroll to your nearest coffee or ice cream shop

Avoid taking the family car for this one. The goal is to spend as much time as possible with each other, and you will save on gas. You can buy one refreshing treat that you can both share.

6-      Cut down on time spent with the boys

Man, you might want to cut down on some of the extracurricular activities with your buddies. Show your partner that you are actually focusing on improving the family’s current financial situation.  Show your partner that you are constantly looking for work or business opportunities. If you hang with the boys 7 days/week, you might want to only do it 5 days/week. I’m just saying!

7-      Pick up the slack

Do some extra work around the house. Help out with the household chores.  This is not the time to do things your way. For example, if your SO likes the towels folded a certain way, do it their way– even if your way may be better. Your expertise is not required at the moment.

8-      Make it a game night

C’mon you got this. Wii Fit, card games, board games, hide and go seek…Need I say more?

9-      Take it back to the ol’ school

Play the songs from high school or college. The ol’ school joints seem to always bring on happy memories. Make your SO a special CD with all their favorites. They can play it around the house, in the car, or at work. They will be thinking and be appreciative of you.

10-   Dance with each other at home

There is a reason why slow dancing was invented. On your Date Night, add slow dancing on the agenda at home. If you have kids, don’t hesitate to show them that you are enjoying each other’s company. Please keep it rated G.

BONUS

Tonight, while your partner is winding down after a long day, do the following:

-          Sit them down in front of the TV or with a book

-          Light up a couple aromatherapy candles in the area

-          Get a  12” x 8”x 4” plastic container and two towels

-          Fill the container with warm water, about half-way

-          Add a few squirts of a scented liquid hand soap or shower gel

-          Place one towel under the container, then soak your partner’s feet into the container for about 5-10 minutes

-          Rub each foot with a foot scrub–a facial scrub will work also (check out her vanity for these items)

-          Soak the feet again for about 5 more minutes

-          Wash off the feet to get rid of any remaining scrub, then dry the feet with a towel

-          Apply lotion to each foot and gently massage as your rub the lotion into the feet

Keep it simple, be creative, and show them that you care about the relationship. Your partner will appreciate the effort.

Getting back on your feet is certainly a priority. However, strengthening and nurturing your union should also be at the top on the list.

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A two-button suit will give you a slimmer look. However, there are limits!

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These days the hottest shades for men and women alike are vintage aviator 1″sunglasses. Nothing beats that old school aviator look and the bigger the better. Most fashions don’t last more than a year or two but aviators still stand as the reigning champion in the sunglasses arena. Not only have they lasted more than a couple years, they’ve lasted decades. Not only have they been around longer than most fashions, anyone can wear them and look cool. There are so many different styles that everyone can wear them and still stand out from the rest of the crowd.

Aviators are always your best bet; I tend to lose or break some, so I always like to have more than one pair. The big mirrored aviators are the best for being out and about in the sun. Not only do they look cool, but man are they dark! You can almost look directly into the sun when wearing a pair(but I don’t recommend it!).

The second pair I always keep around isn’t quite so dark, so that you can still have that vintage aviator look while indoors at the mall or a party. With so many different options from large to small, gold frame to plastic frames, you can find the perfect pair of aviators to fit your every style and stand out from the crowd, even if the rest of the crowd is following the same trend.

So do yourself a favor, buy a pair of vintage aviator sunglasses. Shop around, check out different styles and prices. Stay cool people.

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The Importance of Proper Fit

Dress clothes should always be comfortable. If they are not, it is the fault of the clothes’ fit, and not of their nature. If the fit of a garment makes its wearer uncomfortable, he will look it; indeed a man looks his best when his clothes fit so well he barely notices them. The clothes send a message to the world about you, and if they fit is well, then it will always make a good impression.

Unfortunately most men today wear poorly fitting clothes; it’s not their fault though, as that the clothing sold in stores is cut to fit as many people as possible. When buying a garment the retailer is often of little help, as that the department stores rarely have a salesman on staff that has a deep understanding of fit. Thus as in so many things it falls to each person to take responsibility for the fit of his own clothes and not to be swayed by the prolific selection of poor choices or the dubious influence of models or salesmen.

Proper Fit – Dress Shirt

A dress shirt’s yoke or shoulders should cover the shoulders and nothing more; the shoulder point should not extend down his sleeves. As for the sleeves, you want a shirt with enough fabric so that when you rotate your arms and hold them out from your sides all of your arm remains covered; close fitting cuffs will help with this. You want anywhere from 3 to 6 inches of play in both your stomach and chest areas, and the shirt should be long enough so that when you bend over it doesn’t un-tuck from the back or sides. Finally, the neck collar, when buttoned, should be tight enough to fit no more than two fingers in the space between collar and skin.

 Proper Fit – Suit Jacket

A jacket must fit correctly in the chest and shoulders, as that these are very difficult to alter and in some situations downright impossible to adjust. When you stand with your jacket buttoned and arms hanging at your sides, the jacket’s lapels should lie flat against the front panels, the buttons should hang close to or rest lightly on your stomach, and your biceps should just barely break the drape of sleeve from shoulder. If you tug on the top button, you should have enough room to easily slide your hand in between your lapels and chest, but not enough room so you can slide in your fist. As for your stomach, you should not be able to see it pull more than 3 inches from your belly. Of course, all of this depends on the fit you feel comfortable with. Sleeve length should end at about the wrist, although the exact point is also a matter of taste. As for the relationship between the shirt and the jacket: The shirt’s cuffs should protrude approximately ½ inch from the jacket’s sleeves when you stand with arms hanging. The shirt’s collar should protrude about ½ -1 inch above the jacket collar, with both of them slightly touching.

Proper Fit – Trousers

Pants or trousers should be worn at the natural waist, near the navel. Young people with flat stomachs may choose to wear them lower but they gain little in doing so. The man with a belly, on the other hand, looks much better with high-rise trousers draping from his middle than with his stomach spilling over a low-rise waistband; for this he should consider suspenders. Trouser bottoms should touch the upper part of the front of the shoes and should brush the top edge of the sole at the shoe back; a single break in the front is considered perfect by most, but shorter pant legs that just brush the tops of the shoes can look better on the shorter person.
Shorter men tend to do better without cuffs on their trousers, but should they want them they should be in proportion to their stature.

How to get the perfect fit?

Off-the-rack clothing is designed for the hypothetical model – for each brand, this person’s dimensions change a bit, but unfortunately these measurements are never very close to yours. How can you get a proper fit?

Your alteration specialist – A good alteration specialist can do wonders for clothing that somewhat fits you. They can bring in waists, shorten sleeves, and open up room in the stomach after the holidays. The limit here is that they can often only alter an imperfect garment; in the end it is still imperfect.

Invest in Custom Clothing – Notice I use the term invest; this is because owning clothing that is made to compliment your features is a smart move for anyone. The beauty of custom clothing is that it is designed with your measurements; by its very nature it fits you better than anything else in your closet, and as a result will look better than anything you’ve ever worn.

It is a wonderful feeling to wear garments that fit you perfectly. One feels light and comfortable as the clothes seem to float around the body, neither heavy nor tight anywhere but rather resting evenly throughout. A person in clothing that fits feels confident and free to focus on the task at hand.

From – Ezine Articles

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When you wear your trim two-button suit, leave the belt in the closet – you don’t need one. Going beltless lends the suit a clean, confident look.

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Is there a cause/effect in how we are treated by the world? Does it make a difference in getting someone to help you in a Department store, or being seated at a good table in a restaurant? Can’t people look through all the superficial and see the real us? Fortunately, guys, we have some scientific evidence to support what you wear does make a difference in how you influence the world around you. Maybe we didn’t want to believe (but suspected) the real reason that guy down the hall who always dressed great, but didn’t know poop is now a vice president! When your credibility is crucial, in situations such as job interviews, court testimony, sales presentations and first dates (or even second and third dates) it is important to made a “good” first impression.“You never get a second chance to make a first impression ” — Will Rogers

Behavioral scientists tell us that this “first impression” is a strong one. And the process of sizing you up is on a subconscious/emotional level of the brain. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less and can be so strong that it could take as much as five years to erase. Don’t you think it’s easier to make a great first impression with you appearance and then follow up by showing what a capable, impressive and trustworthy person you are with a winning performance? We’ve all heard the expression ” You can’t judge a book by its cover”. If you agree, it’s a good thing you’re not in publishing. Publishing houses have long since proven that a cover may not tell you what’s inside a book, but the cover is the reason that we pick up one or the other off the rack. Until a book is picked up, no sale is made!

A good example of “how you look being more important than what you say” is the first Kennedy-Nixon presidential debate. Radio listeners thought that Nixon had won while TV watchers gave Kennedy the win. Kennedy looked great, fresh and vigorous while Nixon appeared tired and rumpled. The TV audience gave more credibility to what they saw than what they heard. When I describe someone as an assistant manger at a fast food restaurant you immediately conjure an image of that person, maybe without much conscious thought. When I mention a high level executive you get another, different image in your mind. There is a definite picture of a person with credibility, authority and power – a professional image. Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and utilize the knowledge to enhance and control how you are accepted? A research reports that people notice the following about another human being and in this order.

Remember this is a prehistoric/subliminal evaluation:

1.Skin color

2.Sex

3. Age

We can do nothing about the first three, but we can work on the next four factors.

4. Bearing This includes height (taller people receive higher starting salaries), head movement (nodding is negative with regard to perception of authority) and body language (smiling is perceived as weakness if over done).

5. Appearance Since about 90% of you is covered by apparel, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact. This is such an important area, and on in which you can effect the greatest impression we’ll discuss it detail below.

6. Direct Eye Contact Don’t stare, but look others in the eye 40 – 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide or that you don’t know what you are talking about.

7. Speech 55% of communication is non-verbal. It’s not what you say, but how you say it.
“What you do speaks so loud that I cannot hear what you say.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson What you wear makes a difference in how you influence the world. Why not take advantage of this. Since 90% of us is covered with clothing, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact and one area where we can effect the greatest impression. Dressing badly can be taken as contempt for other people or the situation you are in. Clothing is a way to show others that you have respect and consideration for the situation. If you have respect for the theatre, you don’t show up in shorts and a T-shirt to a Broadway play. (The same goes for church, a job interview, etc.).So it’s not a question of being judged. We are judged thousands of times everyday. It’s a question of whether we want to have an affect on that judging or not. Are we ready to see what we can do to present ourselves in the best package to project a credible, professional image?

Here are some basic tips, and faux pas to avoid in order to look your best:

1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.

2. Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes. Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.

3. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross you legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front. Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4. Wearing both a belt and braces (suspenders) make you look insecure. One or the other please. And if you opt for the braces, please make certain they are the kind that fasten inside your trousers with buttons. It’s very easy to have a tailor or the alterations person at your dry cleaners put brace buttons on your pants if they don’t already have them. The metal clip-ons are for the guys who wear short sleeve shirts with ties.

5. Socks should match your trousers.

6. Belts should match your shoes in color and texture.

7. Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.

8. Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.

9. Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men’s jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend (see detail below). Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons! Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open. Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”). Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened. Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look. Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater? King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 – 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button. The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.

10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing ½” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

11. No pens or pocket protectors in your shirt pocket. Pens go in your suit coat inside pocket, out of sight.

12. Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases accessibility. We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions. “Do the clothes suit you? Do the clothes suit the occasion? Do the clothes suit each other?” — Richard Plourde “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society” — Mark Twain Why even be concerned with “fashion”? “Fashion passes, style remains.” — Coco Chanel (1883-1971), founder of Chanel Men’s clothing, unlike women’s, is more traditional and less fashion oriented. It takes several seasons for men’s designers to change even slightly the width of a necktie. The male business suit is virtually unchanged in 70 years! Part of that is the progression to perfection that has resulted in attire that looks great on most men. The theory is once you reach perfection, don’t mess with it! “I’m interested in longevity, timelessness, style – not fashion.”– Ralph Lauren, fashion designer. So why even bother with fashion? Why not choose acceptable classic clothing items and just stick with those?

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months” — Oscar Wilde It’s important to know what the trends are, so you can update your wardrobe periodically with the fashion items IF they fit your own style and body type. You don’t want to still be wearing a light blue member’s only jacket and red polyester Sansabelt pants, do you? “The only moral one can draw from history is that it is much better to invent a new fashion than a new social theory. The fist may improve the appearance of men; the latter will only bring about a revolution” — Carlo Maria Franzero the biography, Beau Brummell

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